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That wouldn't be a wise method. There could be differences among model years or for other reasons and the level of epoxy could also vary. It's not that difficult to sneak up on the depth. You encounter the top of the battery first, so when you see silver you need to slow down and proceed more cautiously.

The sync, as another viewer mentioned in detail, occurs when your phone is connected via bluetooth to the Zumo and to the internet via your cell network or local wi-fi. In other words, you can be on the road in a hotel or restaurant, make a change in the garmin explore web app, and it will resync without a laptop.

There are a few different kinds of these clamps, which work in similar ways. They make specialized pliers for each type. Honestly, I don't own any of them! If I'm faced with removing these specialized clamps on any vehicle, I'll often just cut them off and replace them with a standard hose clamp that uses a phillips screw to tighten the clamp. But, you can get similar to OEM style clamps and the pliers on Amazon if you wish.

@@tinderboxarts perfect! I looked up a tool and you can buy about 15 standard clamps just for the price of the tool! Thanks again!

Eh, no there really shouldn't be any unusual noises after service. I'm wondering if you are certain you got the front clip back in place? It should snap home and then if you give the driveshaft a tug from the rear it should stay connected to the front. Possibly you didn't have it seated, and possibly when you did your driveway loop that did seat it. But, if I were you I would take another look at that rather than hope for the best.

@tinderboxarts Myself and a motorcycle mechanic double checked, the yoke was pushed, and we felt the bump as it cleared the clip, tugged and spun the rear yoke as per your video and it seemed fine. I d the old drive shaft as the rear joint failed and made a clunking sound. Replaced with a unit from the Beemer Shop. Thanks for your reply, I could be overreacting.

Heat can absolutely affect a battery, as well as the battery connections. And, a new battery doesn't necessarily mean a good battery. You need to charge the battery fully, then test it under load to gauge it's condition. I have a video on that process. At the same time, check the physical connections for any issues and check the charging voltage. The Tiger charging systems are pretty good, as is the starter. I would suspect you have an issue with your new battery or the physical connections.

@@tinderboxarts sounds good I will check it out ! Thanks

Are you certain about that? I just looked up a manual for the 2018 model year of your bike and it recommends 10w-30 oil, with JASO MA and API SG classifications. Some manufacturers will show a range of viscosity which may vary by temperature, but Honda does not in this case. You should stick with the recommendation. A heavier weight oil like you asked about may cause issues with oil pressure, filtering, etc.

It's been awhile since I heard that term used! If your starter is not engaging there are two possibilities: an electrical issue or a mechanical issue. You can test at the starter for the starting voltage to make sure there is enough there to get the job done. Have a helper attempt to turn over the engine while you measure with a meter, or use alligator clips. If that checks out, then the other possibility is that the starter itself is gummed up with debris or just worn out. You may be able to disassemble and clean it, or it may not be worth that effort compared to the cost of a new one.

Yes, without a doubt. However, this boot appears to be discontinued. I wish I had bought an extra pair before they disappeared!

I have videos on the transmission and final drive change as well.

Also I would like to know.Do I have to put any silicone or any type of solution for that white door there was some black gooey stuff.Does it need to be on there

Actually, it does work exactly as I described. If you have an explore app account and if you are logged in, your Zumo should be registered with the Garmin Explore software and files will be downloaded if a network is available. In the explore app you can go to account/plans & devices to see if your unit is properly registered. Of course, things can go wrong. You may not have had the network connection you thought you had or you may not have waited long enough--it isn't necessarily an instant thing. I've planned and ridden three cross country trips in the manner shown in the video, and I'm working on a fourth. The process is ponderous, but it does work as described.

@@tinderboxartsFirst, let me say that I wouldn't have been able to sync my map to my Zumo XT without your video -- so huge thanks are in order!! Apologies for being the contrarian, however, in order to sync the Garmin Explore website with the Zumo XT, the Garmin Drive app needs to be running on the phone and the phone needs to be connected to the internet. The Garmin Explore *phone* app is incompatible completely with the Zumo XT so one must use the Garmin Explore website in order to facilitate the sync. The web site requires the Garmin Drive app as an intermediary to send data to the Zumo. I'm not sure why we're having different experiences but I suspect that if you turn off your phone (or kill the Garmin drive app on your phone) you'll find that you're unable to sync to the Garmin Explore website. The Garmin help documents all seem to support this. e.g. www8.garmin.com/manuals/webhelp/GUID-E024D22C-EA17-40B3-A63F-E9535D86014B/EN-US/GUID-FE6453B3-08C6-4822-B7E1-405BB92DCE34.html I'm very happy to be wrong (because the way you describe is how Garmin *should* have designed it) ... but I did do a controlled test and was unable to sync for hours without the "Drive" app and then it synced within seconds once I ran the "Drive" app on my phone.

No apologies needed. Maybe I misunderstood your point, then. First, I have never played with the Garmin phone app. I use the PC based explore website/software. I have a small laptop I carry on the road, too. So the phone app could well be useless. As for the sync, I understand now you mean to point out that the phone must be connected via Bluetooth to the XT, which is true. And, a network must be available for the phone, which was my earlier point. I typically connect my phone via a local wi-fi network when doing this, or if out on the road I may need to use the cell carrier network. That said, there are places in the US where a cell connection is not available at all, so it's local wi-fi or nothing. But if you have registered your XT in the explore website, and a network is available for your phone, and your bluetooth connection is secure, then when you make an update in explore that update should migrate to the XT on it's own! Clearer?

​@@tinderboxartsThat simply will not work unless the Garmin Drive app is running on your phone. It is a requirement. Please test this yourself by killing the Drive app... you may not even know it's running in the background on your phone but this process will not work without it.

Yes, I was agreeing with you! The phone has to be connected to the XT via bluetooth.

Yeah, there are two potential problems, and sometimes both at once. One is the seal turning gooey, and the other is the door going past the stop. I have spoken to some owners who have both issues, so count your blessings if you only have one!

There is a Haynes Manual, but it might be difficult to find now. I don't know if BMW will sell you a manual directly, but I have seen pirated copies on the interweb. Probably ebay is your best source now.

@@tinderboxarts can I call you?

I hesitate to venture a guess these days, because I have seen all manner of faulty manufacturing in recent years, including bearings. The grease should be evenly distributed, but it is possible you are just looking at some settling to one side which occurred during shipping. You really shouldn't remove the dust cover from a sealed bearing, since it may not go back together successfully. But, if you already have done that, there's no harm in adding additional grease of the same type you find from the manufacturer.

That's a great question. In my experiments, the parking lights do not seem to be as sensitive to errors as the headlights. In fact, I wonder if it matters at all. Possibly the pre-programmed values in the ECU for those lights leave more latitude, or perhaps the LED versions are close enough to the incandescent versions that it doesn't matter. I'm not really sure, but all of the LED bulbs I've tried in those sockets worked fine.

I typically use the standard recommended pressure of 42 PSI rear and 36 PSI front.

The Garmin explore software is web based. You just go to the website, create an account, and you run it in your web browser: explore.garmin.com/

@@tinderboxarts Excellent!! thx for reply.

You're testing my memory. I think the arms attach at the bottom just underneath a plastic cover? Unfortunately nothing comes off as a unit, it's all piece by piece, so you'll have to just keep removing stuff until you have access. If memory serves they are attached with e-clips or c-clips and you may be able to remove those without getting full access. Once you get the new arms installed, use some waterproof grease at the pivot points and you'll never have a problem again. The headlight adjustment is a fussy knob in the front with some plastic bits that often break. There's a cable which goes to the headlight assembly from the knob.

@@tinderboxarts John, thank you so much for the reply. I also order the shop manual CD, hear it's pretty good. I'm not that big a fan of the Haynes manual, better than nothing i suppose. Between your videos and a few others i'm confident enough to do it now. Wanted to avoid ending up with a huge bin of screws, nuts and bolts. One of the best things BMW did was in limiting the different screw sizes. One of the worst things they did on the '11-'12 was the crappy 'metal' the used on the screen set up. Totally unacceptable from BMW. Just bought the '12 RT (17,500mi) after surviving 2 rounds of cancer and selling my 907ie Ducati (loved it-had for 25 yrs) and my Sprint ST (bike had no soul). Looking to slow myself down a bit as well at 71+. I read an article yrs ago in one of the mags-probably Rider) that called the RT "The Gentleman's Express," i like that. Have you sold your RT? Sean

I still have my RT. Earlier this year I did a 6200 mile cross country trip in 13 days with my son. Later this year I hope to do another similar length trip with an old friend. I'm approaching 60, and I have a benign brain tumor which was treated with radiation a few years ago. That left me with some balance problems, but I just kept at it until I had my confidence back again. The RT is a very good bike which will do 90 MPH for 12 hours a day while carrying your luggage, and get up the next day to do it all over again.

I found a positive difference in shifting when I first got the bike and changed the trans fluid, and now I do it routinely. One quart does the trans and the final drive, which is cheap insurance.

I'm not familiar with that bike, so I just did some research. I think you probably have a four pin connector? It seems like there may have been more than one type of system installed on those early models, but I can't confirm that. Apparently your system uses two potentiometers, one for fine adjustment and one for course adjustment, which is the degree measurement you mentioned. I believe you should be able to check those potentiometers in a similar way to what is shown in the video, though it may be different pins. They should react smoothly on an analog meter. However, there is a registration process that owners of these older bikes report using, which synchronizes the sensor with the computer. The best explanation I found is here, but be sure and read the whole thread: forums.bmwmoa.org/threads/tps-alignment-idle-speed-adjustment-beyond-zero-zero.73962/

I'll need some more information to help. There are tracks and routes, and you should be able to do either. When I convert an imported track I convert it to a "trip" so I can use it in the trip planner app. I showed this around 8:32 in the video. Is that what you are doing?

J'ai mis un lien dans la description où vous pouvez effectuer l'achat, bien qu'il s'agisse de la version américaine d'Amazon.

Thank you, I hope the meter works well for you.

If there is a rev limiter, I've never hit it! No, I've never seen such an adjustment and since the bike will pull right up to redline I'm not sure why you'd even need such a thing?

@@tinderboxarts my bike redline is on 8k rpm, my country doesn’t have Bmw dealer so I can’t turn it off, I was wondering if gs911 can turn it off? (S1000rr 23)

Oh, I see--you have an artificial redline imposed by government regulators? I still doubt you can change that with the GS911. I've never seen the option, but then again in the USA I don't think there are limitation imposed.

@@tinderboxarts yeah man, either govermant regulation or BMW just won’t let us rev beyond 8k until first service. But Yeah I guess GS911 could do its job, thanks man.

Oh, if you haven't had your first service yet, then that could be it. The dealer should be able to handle that for you and I think the cost is included in the original sale.

True, but you'll find that trying to measure along the bottom is difficult at best. There's no easy way to put that area under tension and its more difficult to hold a ruler or measuring stick there since you can't rest it on the chain while you observe or mark. You'll also need to remove the chain guard either way since you'll need access to the top to create tension. Measuring the top is easiest.

Honestly, I'm a little surprised myself! I'm sure I'm nearing the end of it's life, but there's no harm in continuing for now since I'll replace the sprockets too.

@@tinderboxarts please have a video of chain/sprocket replacement. I’m a noob when it comes to motorcycle maintenance. I’m only good with cars lol

We have a massive deer problem in my area, so I know what you faced. It's funny, your mention of hip armor resonates with me because I think that is probably more important than knee armor. Anyway, this jacket in the review I have now taken on three cross-country trips, each totaling 6000 or more miles. It has served me well and is still going strong. I did find the fit a little too roomy in the belly area, so I stitched up the sides to take up some extra fabric. Other than that, I've had no issues.

​@@tinderboxartsYou just need to drink more beer, ha ha!! I really appreciate the feedback.

I would doubt the throttle position sensor would be at fault there. When that sensor starts to go bad there are data drop-outs, and the computer does not typically recognize a problem, it just gets confused. If you have an actual light on the dash, that's good news in the sense that a code was stored. You can use a GS911 or Motoscan device to read the code and get a clue about what has gone wrong. You should start with that.

@@tinderboxarts thank you